Because the studs remain stationary during nut tightening, the studs stretch in one axis alone, providing much more even and accurate clamping forces. This is especially important when dealing with alloy blocks.
The use of studs also eases main cap installation, and contributes to main cap alignment. There is less chance of main cap walking because the studs remain stationary during cap clamping. Before installation begins, clean the block, the caps and the studs thoroughly. Any debris on the threads can easily affect thread engagement quality and can cause incorrect torque wrench readings.
Never use a cutting tap to perform this task, as this will cut, shave and remove thread material, which can reduce thread strength. Also make sure that your torque wrench is properly calibrated. All torque wrenches should be checked for calibration at least once each year more frequently for heavy use. Use consistent tightening techniques. Do not double-nut the stud and tighten severely. Remember — the torque value given for the installation refers to the tightening of the nut only, not the stud itself!
If stud removal is required in the future, the application of heat will break the compound down. If a locking compound is used, be sure to immediately install the main cap before the compound sets, to avoid any possible misalignment of the studs in relation to the cap. This means installing the cap and tightening the nuts to specs, before the thread compound hardens. This allows the necessary preload to be placed on the stud-to-block thread engagement before the compound hardens.
When installing the studs, simply make sure that full thread engagement has been achieved. Once the studs are installed, install the main caps and check for stud-to-cap alignment check for binding — the caps should slip over the studs smoothly.
Lubricate the exposed fine threads of the studs, and be sure to also lube the washers and nuts. NOTE: Torque specifications will vary, depending on the lubricant used. Moly lube offers a more consistent torque reading than various oils. If Moly is used, be sure to follow the torque specs for Moly. If oil is used, follow the specs for oil.
The specs will be different! With caps in place, the nuts should be tightened to the specified torque value three times. IE, jessel shaft with 1. Send a private message to zipper Find More Posts by zipper Studs vs Bolts. I would say studs are a good choice.. I have sbc with studs.. It was an assembly issue I had to remove all the studs one at a time and reseal them.. I would suggest Loctite for sealing stud treads..
Take Care Keith. Send a private message to dynaguy Find More Posts by dynaguy Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Email this Page. Advanced Search. This feature makes it easier to assemble an engine using head studs.
However, head bolts are far more convenient for disassembling an automobile engine or for performing maintenance, such as part replacement. Many everyday-use vehicles have master cylinders or other components that extend into the engine compartment. Under these specifications, head bolts allow the cylinders to be removed without removing the entire engine from the car, as is necessary with head studs.
In other words, head studs are better suited for high-performance vehicles with greater power requirements, while head bolts are more practical for personal, everyday automobiles. Therefore, it would be inaccurate to conclude that one type of fastener is categorically superior to the other. Rather, the preference depends on the automobile in question and the ways in which it will be put to use. Guides Share:.
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